Toyota Land Crusoer Heard Gasket

Ensure that the leads are numbered before removing them, to avoid confusion when refitting

7 Check inside the end fitting for signs of corrosion, which will look like a white crusty powder. Push the end fitting back onto the spark plug, ensuring that it is a tight fit on the plug. If not, remove the lead again and use pliers to carefully crimp the metal connector inside the end fitting until it fits securely on the end of the spark plug.

8 Using a clean rag, wipe the entire length of the lead to remove any built-up dirt and grease. Once the lead is clean, check for burns, cracks and other damage. Do not bend the lead excessively, nor pull the lead lengthwise - the conductor inside might break.

9 If an ohmmeter is available, check the resistance of the lead by connecting the meter across the ends of the lead and compare with the resistance given in the Specifications. Refit the lead securely on completion.

10 Check the remaining leads one at a time, in the same way.

11 If new spark plug (HT) leads are required, purchase a set for your specific car and engine.

12 Unscrew and remove the distributor cap retaining screws and remove the cap. Wipe the cap clean, and carefully inspect it inside and out for signs of cracks, carbon tracks (tracking) and worn, burned or loose contacts. Check that the cap's carbon brush is unworn and making good contact with the rotor arm. Inspect the cap seal for signs of wear or damage, and renew if necessary. Slacken the retaining screw where applicable, then remove the rotor arm from the distributor shaft, and inspect it. It is a good idea to renew the cap and rotor arm whenever new spark plug (HT) leads are fitted. When fitting a new cap, remove the leads from the old cap one at a time, and fit them to the new cap in the exact same location - do not simultaneously remove all the leads from the old cap, or firing order confusion may occur. On refitting, ensure that the rotor arm is pressed securely onto the distributor shaft, and securely tighten its retaining screw. Ensure that the cap seal is in position, then fit the cap and securely tighten its retaining screws.

Ignition timing check

13 Having performed the above checks, it is a good idea to also check the ignition timing. Refer to the procedures contained in Chapter 5B.

1 Refer to Chapter 4B and check that all wiring and hoses are correctly connected to the evaporative loss system components.

Every 9000 miles or 6 months 1.13

Does Bleach Kill Bed Bugs

11.1c ... then lift the cover from the air cleaner body and remove the element

11.1a Release the toggle clips ...

1 Release the clips, then lift the cover from the air cleaner body and lift out the element (see illustrations). There is no need to disconnect the air duct or inlet air temperature sensor wiring.

2 Check that the element is not damaged, oily or excessively dirty.

3 To clean the element, blow from its underside using compressed air then blow off its upper surfaces.

4 Refit the element using a reversal of the removal procedure.

1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the camshaft cover, cylinder head, oil filter and sump joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of time, some very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected -what you are really looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see Haynes Hint). Should a leak be found, renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this manual.

2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable ties or securing clips are in place and in good condition. Clips which are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or wiring, which could cause more serious problems in the future.

3 Carefully check the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose which is cracked, swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system components. Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks.

4 Inspect all the cooling system components (hoses, joint faces etc.) for leaks. Where any problems of this nature are found on system components, renew the component or gasket with reference to Chapter 3.

5 Where applicable, inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or deterioration.

6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and tank is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber.

7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away from the fuel tank. Check for loose connections, deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck and can become blocked or crimped. Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary.

8 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and vacuum hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration.

9 Where applicable, check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes.

10 With the vehicle raised, check all brake hydraulic pipes and hoses for deterioration and damage.

11.1c ... then lift the cover from the air cleaner body and remove the element

13 Brake pedal check and 'J^ adjustment ^

Refer to the procedures in Chapter 9.

14 Brake vacuum servo unit ^ check

Test the operation of the brake vacuum servo unit as follows. With the engine switched off, depress the footbrake four or five times to exhaust the vacuum, then hold the pedal depressed. Start the engine, and there should be a noticeable give in the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least two minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed again, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and the pedal should feel considerably firmer.

In service, the handbrake should be fully applied within 4 to 7 clicks of the handbrake lever ratchet. On drum-brake models, the handbrake lever travel will normally be kept within these limits by the self-adjusting mechanism on the rear brake shoes. Periodic manual adjustment may be necessary however, to compensate for cable stretch, and this is carried out by means of the cable adjuster on the side of the handbrake lever. On disc-brake models, the handbrake shoes, located inside the rear brake disc/drum assemblies, must first be adjusted manually to compensate for lining wear, and then the handbrake cable can be adjusted by means of the adjuster on the handbrake lever, to provide the specified lever travel (ratchet clicks). Refer to Chapter 9 for the full adjustment procedure according to type.

11 Air filter element check and & clean H

12 Hose and fluid leak check

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Simple Car Care Tips and Advice

Simple Car Care Tips and Advice

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