27 Seat belt check
Refer to the procedure in Chapter 10.
25 Door and bonnet hinge lubrication i I
30 Road test
1 Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam is only possible using optical beam-setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a Toyota dealer or suitably-equipped workshop.
2 Adjustment screws are located on the rear of the headlight units and access is gained by opening the bonnet. The outer screw (nearest the vehicle wing) is used to adjust the horizontal alignment, and the inner screw is used to adjust the vertical alignment. Note that on models with electric aim adjustment, the adjustment switch must be set to position 0 before carrying out beam alignment.
3 Certain models are equipped with a headlight beam adjustment switch, located on the centre console, which allows the aim of the headlights to be adjusted to compensate for the varying loads carried in the vehicle. The switch should be positioned according to the load being carried in the vehicle - eg; position 0 for driver with no passengers or luggage; up to position 3 for maximum load, or towing.
1 All vehicles are fitted with three point, inertia reel front and outer rear seat belts, with a two point lap belt for the centre rear seat.
2 Inspect the belts for signs of fraying or other damage. Also check the operation of the buckles and retractor mechanisms, and ensure that all mounting bolts are securely tightened. Note that the bolts are shouldered so that the belt anchor points are free to rotate.
3 If there is any sign of damage, or any doubt about the condition of a belt, it must be renewed. If the vehicle has been involved in a collision, any belts in use at the time should be renewed as a matter of course, and all other belts should be checked carefully.
4 Use only warm water and non-detergent soap when cleaning the belt webbing. Never use chemicals that could attack the belt fabric and reduce its effectiveness. Keep the belts fully extended until they have dried - do not apply heat to accelerate drying.
28 Body corrosion check
1 All hinges and locks (doors, bonnet, tailgate, boot, and fuel filler flap) should be examined for correct operation and any defects rectified.
2 Lubricate the moving parts of the hinges and locks with a little engine oil, and apply a little multi-purpose grease to the contact surfaces of the locks and strikers.
1 While operating the windscreen washers, check that the upper limit of the jet is aimed at a point vertically above the jet and near the top of the area wiped by the wipers. The lower limit of the jet should be aimed on the windscreen near the bottom of the area wiped by the wipers but towards the driver's side.
2 If adjustment is required, use a pin or similar tool 0.7 to 0.75 mm In diameter to adjust the nozzle in the jet.
1 Jack up the front and rear of the vehicle and support on axle stands (see Jacking and Vehicle Support).
2 Working from the front to the rear of the vehicle, check the condition of the entire vehicle structure for signs of corrosion, especially near the load-bearing areas. These include chassis box sections, side sills, cross-members, pillars, and all suspension, steering, braking system and seat belt mountings and anchorages.
3 Check that the anti-corrosion sealing materials on the underbody are intact. Where necessary re-apply the material.
4 In the engine compartment, examine the front suspension upper mountings and inner wing panels, also the lower areas of the front valance for signs of corrosion.
5 Inside the vehicle, lift the carpets where possible and check the floor and Inner surfaces of the sills for signs of corrosion.
6 Check the drain holes in the doors for blockages and clear by probing with wire.
7 Where body corrosion is evident, consult a Toyota dealer to have it repaired.
29 Alarm remote control battery ^
The alarm remote control battery should be renewed at the specified intervals to ensure correct operation of the alarm system. Obtain a new battery from a Toyota dealer and fit it in accordance with the instructions supplied.
Instruments and electrical equipment
1 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment.
2 Make sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical equipment in turn, to check that it functions properly.
Steering and suspension
3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road feel.
4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises.
5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive sloppiness, or roughness, and check for any suspension noises when cornering and driving over bumps.
6 Check the performance of the engine, clutch (if applicable), transmission and driveshafts.
7 Listen for any unusual noises from the engine, clutch and transmission.
8 Make sure that the engine runs smoothly when idling, and that there is no hesitation when accelerating.
9 Check that, where applicable, the clutch action is smooth and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed.
10 On manual transmission models, check that all gears can be engaged smoothly without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or notchy.
11 On automatic transmission models, make sure that all gearchanges occur smoothly, without snatching, and without an increase in engine speed between changes. Check that all the gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they should be referred to a Toyota dealer.
12 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this check in both directions. If a clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a driveshaft joint, in which case the joint should be renewed.
Check the operation and performance of the braking system
13 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard.
14 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking.
15 Check that the handbrake operates correctly without excessive movement of the lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope.
Routine maintenance and servicing Li?
Every 18 000 miles (30 000 km) or 12 months
31 Spark plug renewal
Note: On 4A-FE and 7A-FE (lean-burn) engines fitted with platinum-tipped spark plugs, the renewal interval is every 63 000 miles.
1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine (a suitable type is specified at the beginning of this Chapter). If this type is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled replacement intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends.
2 If the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the engine). Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the end fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured. Note that as the spark plugs are deeply recessed, the HT lead end fittings are extended (see illustration).
3 It is advisable to remove the dirt from the spark plug recesses using a clean brush, vacuum cleaner or compressed air before removing the plugs, to prevent dirt dropping into the cylinders.
A Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!
4 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug spanner, suitable box spanner or a deep socket and extension bar (see illustration). Keep the socket aligned with the spark plug -if it is forcibly moved to one side, the ceramic insulator may be broken off, however since the spark plugs are deeply recessed this is not likely to be a problem until the plugs are being withdrawn. As each plug is removed, examine it as follows.
5 Examination of the spark plugs will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug transfers heat away from the electrode slowly, a cold plug transfers heat away quickly).
6 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this Is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich.
31.9b Measuring the spark plug gap with a wire gauge
7 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is correct and it is likely that the engine is in good condition.
8 The spark plug electrode gap is of considerable importance as, if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap should be set to the value given in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter.
9 To set the gap, measure it with a feeler blade or wire gauge, and then bend the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved (see illustrations). The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulator and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. If using feeler blades, the gap is correct when the appropriate-size blade is a firm sliding fit.
10 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting tools are available from most motor accessory shops, or from some spark plug manufacturers.
11 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are clean.
It is very often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without cross-threading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short length of 5/16 inch internal diameter rubber hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage to the cylinder head.
12 Remove the rubber hose (if used), and tighten the plug to the specified torque using the spark plug socket and a torque wrench. Refit the remaining spark plugs in the same manner.
13 Connect the HT leads in their correct order, making sure they are located in the special support at the left-hand end of the camshaft cover.
1-18 Every 18 000 miles or 12 months
33.2 Removing the air cleaner element from the body
32.1 The fuel filter is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment bulkhead
A Warning: Before carrying out the following operation, refer to the precautions given in Safety first! at the beginning of this manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol is a highly-dangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed.
5 Fit the new filter using a reversal of the removal procedure. Position a new sealing washer on each side of the hose unions and ensure that the hose union is positioned between the locating pins on the filter. Tighten the union bolts securely.
6 Start the engine and check the filter hose connections for leaks. On completion, stop the engine.
1 Release the air cleaner lid retaining clips, then lift off the lid and position it clear of the body. There is no need to disconnect the air duct or air temperature sensor wiring.
2 Note how the element is located in the air cleaner body, then lift it out (see illustration).
3 Wipe the inside of the air cleaner body and lid with a clean cloth to remove all traces of dirt and debris.
4 Install the new filter element, ensuring that it is the right way up and is correctly seated in the housing.
5 Refit the air cleaner lid, and secure it in position with its retaining clips.
33.2 Removing the air cleaner element from the body
1 The fuel filter is located in the engine compartment, mounted on the left-hand side of the engine compartment bulkhead (see illustration).
2 Open the bonnet, then refer to Chapter 4A and depressurise the fuel system.
3 To remove the filter, position a suitable container beneath the filter to catch spilt fuel, then slacken and remove the filter union bolts and disconnect the hoses. Recover the sealing washers. Tape or plug the hose ends to minimise fuel loss.
4 Unscrew the two retaining bolts and remove the fuel filter from the vehicle.
The procedure is similar to that for the bleeding of the hydraulic system as described in Chapter 9, except that the brake fluid reservoir should be emptied by syphoning, and allowance should be made for the old fluid to be removed from the circuit when bleeding a section of the circuit.
Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km)
35 Transmission oil/fluid renewal
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